Hello. Saw my friend the osprey soaring over the bay on Sunday, back from his winter stay, and green tips on some of the trees in the woods. I bet we’re a month away from pea shoots, with hot asparagus on his heels.
Until then, however: the cabbage continues its reign. And Melissa Clark has a fantastic new recipe to please the court: roasted cabbage with parmesan, walnuts and anchovies (above). It’s his riff on a classic stuffed cabbage, though considerably easier to make, with a delicious balance of textures and tastes. It would be great on its own, but maybe even better with some flattened chicken thighs.
Alternatively, you can take a look at this awesome Swedish kalpuddinga kind of meatloaf with caramelized cabbage, or creamy pasta with bacon and red cabbageWhere ginger cabbage rolls with pork and rice. And don’t forget the Coleslaw they were serving at Mission Chinese Food in Manhattan. Oumami!
A few cabbage-free things to cook right now, as the year is fast approaching: spicy salmon with snow peas and red onion; crispy noodles on plate with glazed tofu; Ginger-Shallot Chicken; verrines with prawns and spicy mustard sauce.
Not that you need a good recipe to make delicious food. You can instead remove a prompt and see where it takes you. I’m going to suggest one now: spicy roast chicken tacos with watermelon muchim. This is something I did over the weekend after reading my colleague Eric Kim’s exciting new cookbook”korean americanand then leaving the book on my desk at work, so I couldn’t use his written recipe at home.
Here’s what I recalled: cubes of boneless chicken thighs marinated in a sauce of whipped jalapeños, cilantro, garlic, olive oil, and a little salt, black pepper, and sugar, then roasted on a sheet pan until crispy. While it was cooking, I made the muchim: watermelon cubes tossed with gochugaru, salt and black pepper, jalapeño slices and a vinaigrette of rice vinegar, fish sauce and sesame oil . Then I heated some tortillas and, wow, it all made great tacos. Maybe try?
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here is Paige Williams in The New Yorkerabout a new law in Idaho that allows hunters to aggressively pursue gray wolves, a once endangered species.
In other cookbook news, I was delighted with Pat Martin and Nick Fauchald’s comprehensive, practical and delicious treatise on real fire”fire lifewhich makes me dream of long summer days spent cooking and picking pigs. Soon!
Finally, here’s a new track from Soccer Mommy: “Shotgun.” “Cold beer and ice cream is all we keep / The only things we really need.” Listen to this while you’re in the cabbage patch, and I’ll be back Friday.